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 Sexing turtles,Breeding,and Eggs

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Age : 46
Registration date : 2008-08-07

PostSubject: Sexing turtles,Breeding,and Eggs   Fri Aug 08, 2008 12:34 pm

When fully grown, females tend to be larger than males. The tail of the male is longer and thicker than that of a female. The female tail is very small and looks a lot like a triangle.


FEMALE have brown eyes and flat plastron females arent that colorful but can have some colors just males are the brightest in most cases

MALE have red eyes and a concave in the plastrom and males are more colorful then females

Differentiating Male and Female Chrysemys picta (Painted Turtle)


Differentiating Male and Female Cistoclemmys (Cuora) flavomarginata (Chinese box turtle)


Differentiating Male and Female Geochelone carbonaria (Red-foot tortoise)


Differentiating Male and Female African Spurred Tortoises - Geochelone sulcata


Differentiating Male and Female Geoemyda spengleri (Black Breasted Leaf Turtle)


Differentiating Male and Female Testudo graeca (Greek tortoise)


Differentiating Male and Female Testudo horsfieldii (Russian tortoise)


Turtle sexing and breeding

Turtles can not be sexed until they reach sexual maturity at around 5 inches. Males will have long thick tails and long front claws. Females have short nails and a short stubby tail.

**Remember, females can produce eggs even if they have NEVER been with a male!!**




~~PLEASE NOTE-Do not attempt to breed if you do NOT have room for many VERY large turtles!! There are way too many RES in need of good homes already! Please do not attempt to breed RES with the intent to sell them, there are again WAY too many and they are so common you will not get much money anyway! Please be aware of all local and state laws BEFORE you breed!~~

I GOT THIS HERE http://reslider.free.fr/breeding.html

Maturity age - Red-Eared sliders will be mature enough for breeding at about 5 years of age, this is when the female shell size is about 15 cms (about 6 inches).

Mating dance - The mating dance of this species is very elaborated and interesting to observe. The male swims towards the female and starts caressing her face with his long front claws. He might also swim around her in circles. He might also strike her front shell lightly with his claws (this looks as if his front leggs are trembling). If she is receptive, she will accept him, otherwise, a fight might start. If after 45 minutes, the female is not receptive to the male's dance, you should remove her from the tank and try again in about two days. The mating itself takes about 15 minutes.

Mating tank size - Use a 30 gallon tank. Keep the water warm but shallow (About 5 inches), since during the mating the male might get so concentrated that he might forget that the female has to go out for breathing!.

After mating - It is advisable during pregnancy to keep the female separate from the male, so that she will not get disturbed so much. You should handle her ONLY when absolutely necessary. Keep the water very clean and give her enough space. Heating is also very important as they will spend a lot of time basking to warm themselves and the eggs inside. You might notice a change in the appetite of the female, she might refuse to eat. This is normal. Nevertheless, continue offering her food and consider a dietary change, she might feel inclined to eat certain things only.

Nesting quarters - Prepare a 20 gallon tank with about 4 inches of potting soil or soil/vermiculite mixture.

Laying eggs - The average gestation period is two months, but if she doesn't find a suitable place for laying her eggs, she might retain them inside. During the last two weeks you will notice that she will want to spend more time on land, sniffing and digging around inorder to find a proper place for laying her leggs. At this point, you need to place the female in the nesting quarters. Try to watch her as much as you can to see where she lays the eggs. She might lay from 2 to 20 eggs.

Removing the eggs or not? - Some keepers prefer to leave the eggs where they were laid. A good point of doing so is that they do not need to handle the eggs, digging them out could dammage some of them. A bad point is that monitoring buried eggs could be a bit difficult. The worst that could happen is that one egg goes bad, gets fungi that then spreads to the other eggs... or some of the hatchilings might have a problem digging their way out.

Incubation box - If you decide to remove the eggs to incubate them, you will need to prepare an incubation box. You can use a large plastic sweater box or a plastic shoebox. ( Plastic boxes are good since they can be throughly cleaned and keeps well the moisture.) Drill a series of small holes into the lid for ventilation. (Make no more than a dozen holes of about a quarter of an inch in diameter). Then, set up a bedding in the container of about 2 inches of vermiculite. Use the heavy grain rather than the fine one. Moisten the vermiculite evenly. Make sure it is DAMP and not WET.

Removing the eggs - This process has to be done very carefully. Scoop back small sections of the substrate around the next, very slowly and carefully, trying to feel the eggs with your fingers at the same time. Once you find an egg, before removing it, get a water based felt-tipped marker and make a small mark on the top of the shell. This is important since you need to place the eggs in the same position the turtle layed them. Once you have transfered all the eggs to the incubation box, set it somewhere where it will not be disturbed . Check the eggs a few days after by just removing the lid, but don't handle them! Check for rotten eggs, which you should throuw away immediately. If you see that an egg is developing fungi, you can remove the fungi with a 50/50 solution of antiseptic mouthwash and water, which you should apply carefully with a paintbrush.

Hatching - You should start to observe the eggs more carefully about 80 to 85 days after they had been laid. Hatching time is comming! Once the time comes, the hatchings will cut the egg shell with something called the egg tooth, which falls out about an hour later and never grows back. If they don't feel secure, they will remain inside their shells. Do not try to take them out until they have come out on their own. (they might not come out until the following day). Once they come out, you will notice a small sack hanging out of their bellies. This is the yolk sac that fed them while they were incubating. DO NOT try to remove this sac, trying to remove it can kill the baby turtle. It is better to wait that it drops on its own. Once it drops, you will notice a split in the plastron. This will heal by itself too, you don't need to treat it.

Care of the hatchlings - Set them on a 20 gallon tank per dozen. Provide them with a dry land area and a shallow water area. Newborns need to master the art of floating and staying underwater for long periods of time. Don't assume that they will survive only with water. Newborn red-eared sliders can actually drown if you neglect them a dry land area. Once they are set up in their tank start feeding them. It is important to get them to eat. Start by offering them one by one all items on the proper slider diet. Note: You might have to 'chop' all of the food you offer since they are small babies. This includes choping earthworms, mealworms, crickets. I know, this sounds disgusting but believe me, you will get used to after a while and it won't bother you anymore. As with addult sliders, newborns need to have their full spectrum light. So don't forget to include that in the tank. The full spectrum light will help the newborn shells to harden. Keep the water neatly clean. If you don't have a filter change the water every two days. This is very important since baby sliders are more prone to getting eye infecitions (that can leave them blind for life or even kill them) than adult sliders.

Although applying principally to the incubation of California desert tortoise eggs, the following suggestions are for all turtle and tortoise eggs in general. Always bear in mind that there is no one method that will assure success and that in some cases an entire clutch of eggs will be infertile and not capable of hatching under even ideal conditions.

Unless the area in which captive tortoises and turtles live is very similar in temperature and soil to that of the natural environment, eggs will rarely hatch if left in the nest. They should be dug up very carefully, the top of each egg marked with a pencil (not a marker; the shells are permeable and the ink is toxic) to guard against turning and jarring, and then placed in an incubator.

Incubators may be anything from the commercial type used for chickens (available at some pet stores, feed stores, or by mail-order) to the homemade variety made from bread boxes, cardboard boxes, styrofoam coolers, small glass aquariums, or even margarine tubs (placed in a warm spot with a few small holes in the lid so oxygen can get in). A light for heat control should be in the incubator, plus a thermometer (either hung on inside wall or placed next to eggs) and, in cases where water or box turtle eggs are being incubated, include a small container of water or wetted-down sphagnum moss for necessary humidity. Eggs incubated without minimal humidity tend to cave in, dry out and not hatch. Most eggs require a small container of water near the eggs, replenished regularly (the water evaporates).

Sand, peat moss or other floor covering may be used, but again this is a matter of personal preference. Some fanciers bury eggs in sand to a depth of an inch or two. Others do not. In 1969 the San Diego Zoo incubated its eggs in sand-filled earthenware crocks, covered with sheets of glass to contain condensed moisture. A hazard to sand is that a newly hatched turtle or tortoise may eat it, become impacted and die. Soft, finely sifted, chemical-free dirt works well for most eggs and won’t tear the yolk sac attached to all new hatchlings for the first few days of life.

Regardless of method chosen, temperature is the most important factor. Eggs incubated at between 85° and 90° F will usually hatch if fertile. Experimentation is necessary to determine proper light wattage that will maintain constant temperature. In some incubators, a 7-1/2-Watt light is sufficient; others may need a 40-Watt bulb or more. Distance from the eggs should be 8-10 inches if using a styrofoam cooler so you avoid hot spots on the eggs; this will probably necessitate mounting the bulb in the lid and adjusting the wattage to get a stable interior temperature.

Let the closed incubator heat completely for several hours, checking the thermometer from time to time before finally deciding which size light is best. Always keep a spare light on hand because the original will burn out at some point during the incubation process.

Desert tortoise eggs will hatch anywhere between 76 and 120 days, average time being about 85 to 90 days. Many water turtle eggs require the same length of time. Some of the more exotic species require up to six months (one African Pancake tortoise hatchling appeared after 210 days!); in these cases, it is best to check specific references, look on the internet, or network with other keepers to learn incubation times.

The following incubation times are average ranges: Tortoises, 70-100 days; box turtles, 60-90 days; water turtles, 60-85 days; and exotic tortoises, 100-160 days. Use these times as a guide; remember, there can be exceptions based on external factors.
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